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Posted 21 November 2008
The ancient Greek geographer and historian Pausanias wrote the first travel guide to Greece almost 2000 years ago, and although he covered gods, battles and other noteworthy events he failed to include any kiting locations. Despite this omission people have flocked here on holiday, lured by sun-drenched beaches, ancient ruins and islands with a hedonistic nightlife. After spending a few weeks in Turkey (issue 35) it was time for Kris and I to sample some of the same so we headed to the Greek side of The Aegean Sea.
Tiny chapels perch on cliffs overlooking the azure sea and whitewashed building with blue shutters and doors dot the rugged hills amongst the terraced olive groves. In town scooters weave around black clad old ladies hobbling down the narrow cobbled streets. Paros still remains one of the most picturesque islands in Greece.
Paros Kiteboarding Center is one of my sponsors and Kris was instructing here for the summer so it was an ideal base for a few months, especially as this year the wind practically blew non-stop during July and August. It funnels between the islands of Paros and Antiparos, creating a venturi effect and the water in the channel remains fairly flat. During the height of summer the area in front of the centers was crowded with body-dragging students and kiters. However, further along the beach it remained relatively quiet. Renting a scooter is a good way to explore the island although it’s not uncommon to see tourists hobbling around with bandaged arms and legs from accidents.
From Paros we caught an overnight ferry to Crete. Travelling by ferry makes a welcome change from flying, with no baggage weight-restrictions and the space to lie out on deck and walk around. Our board bags didn’t fare quite so well though and were stored next to boxes of fish that leaked. For the next few days a rich aroma accompanied us and earned us a few dirty looks from taxi drivers.
Crete is one of the largest of the Greek islands so we hired a car to explore its northern coastline, which was forecasted to receive the most wind. We quickly realised that its rocky shoreline offered few options. We were able to kite close to the town of Sitia but the small stony beach and choppy water made it far from ideal. This area is supposed to have some good waves later in the year but during the summer the small shore break quickly closed out. After a couple of days without much success we returned to a large sandy beach close to the main port of Iraklio. There were a few too many used condoms and needles to call it a pristine beach but the local kiters were very welcoming and the waves breaking on a reef provided some fun kickers.
Kite trips seem to revolve around wind and food and after a day’s riding we would set out in search of a new place to eat. Many of the small restaurants were family-run affairs, serving Greek favourites; mousaka, souvlaki, stuffed vegetables and seafood. Cheese and olive oil accompanied everything. Octopus were tenderised by being beaten on a rock and hung up outside. Greeks version of fast food is gyro pita, slivers of pork wrapped in flat bread with onions and a yogurt dressing.
Greece has ancient ruins like other countries have car parks and it is not uncommon to see a column or an archaeological dig in the middle of a modern city with a plaque dating it’s ancient heritage. However, for history the scale of the next island outdid all the others.
Arriving in Rhodes port of we had an impressive view of its medieval walled city. In places the walls are twelve meters thick and topped with battlements, a reminder of this islands turbulent past. Knights’ coats of arms adorn the gateways and signs of Ottoman influences are present with mosques and Turkish baths. It was defiantly worth a day wandering around and getting lost in the city’s winding streets. Our hostel was in the middle of the old city and what it lacked in luxuries it made up for in character. The mains streets were busy with tourists; cafes and shops sold reproduced Greek statues, wall hangings and other tack. We caught the bus to Prassonisi on the southern tip of the island, which is one of the most popular kiting destinations in Greece. The wind howled across the huge sand bar and yet in its lee barely a ripple moved across the water. This was a perfect spot to ride. Along the whole length of the sandbar windsurfers wobbled back and forth and unfortunately kiting has been relegated to a tiny corner at one end. Having such perfect conditions but unable to make the most of them was a Greek kiting tragedy. The onshore side of the sandbar was open to both kiters and windsurfers. It was also less crowded and made a nice respite from dodging crashing kites and windsurfers.
We camped in the dunes with a great view over the beach and we thought it was an
ideal spot until it blew 35 knots and sand rained down inside our tent. A few days
later a storm exposed more inadequacies of our tent, which leaked like a sieve.
This was the first rain since April and signaled a change in seasons. The wind that
had been consistent for so many months now became erratic and forecasts changed
hourly. The Meltemi wind system was coming to an end for this year.
Travelling in Greece
With a small window to make the year’s profit prices are often ridiculously inflated
during the height of summer. Surprising considering how many people rely on the
tourism the Greek manner can often feel a bit blunt and customer service leaves
a bit to be desired
We tried to camp whenever possible, in some places it’s not strictly allowed but
people usually turn a blind eye.
Greece has a huge coastline but a large amount of it is rocky and during the summer
months the beaches are crowed with tourists. It’s always a good idea to check with
local kiters where you are able to ride as many places have access issues and you
don’t want to ruin it for the locals.
It may have been the birthplace of democracy and spawned enlightened philosophers
but Greece still hasn’t worked out how to how to flush toilet paper. It’s placed
in a small bin, just waiting for the next outbreak of typhoid or cholera.
Prices: (euros)
Coke – 0.70 – 1
Beer - 2.50 – 4.00
Dinner - 7 (gyro pitas and drink)- 15(usual Greek food and drink)
Hostels – 27 for a private double
Hotels 35-50